Wondering how it feels to live in a countryside farm

If visually sterile hotel rooms that look exactly like each other have become tiresome, Italy's agri-tourism sector offers a welcome change. As part of a wide-ranging programme that now includes hundreds of working farms, visitors can get an authentic taste of rural living, often at prices lower than hotel chains, with added benefits of fresh air, locally-sourced food, authentic hospitality and having nature at your doorstep.

One such farm, or 'agriturismo' (in Italian), is Agriturismo Ferdy. It is located in the province of Bergamo in Italy's Lombardy region - a hub for industry, commerce and agriculture - and is a two-hour drive from Milan.

After seeing it listed as one of the most family-friendly hotels in the country, we decided to see it for ourselves this summer. The family-owned farm can be found in a valley just past the town of San Pellegrino, better known for its mineral water. As we lugged our bags across a seemingly flimsy bridge across the Brembo River, we were warmly greeted and shown our rooms. Although it is a functioning farm, Ferdy offers a handful of cosy, comfortable rooms.

Once we settled in, we savoured the fresh air in deep gulps while taking in the view of the quaint central farmhouse with large, community-sized tables laid out with silverware and candles under a line of seemingly ancient cypress trees. This was where our first dinner would be served. That first crisp, cool evening set the tone for the rest of our stay.

The story of Agriturismo Ferdy began in December 1989. After seeking his luck abroad, the owner, Ferdinando 'Ferdy' Quarteroni, missed his mountainous homeland - and who can blame him? - and returned. He and his wife Cinzia bought the house in 1988; it all started with the acquisition of a dozen horses, aiming at focusing on an equestrian tourism business. As the equestrian side expanded successfully, the next step was to acquire and breed horned goats and brown Alpine cows. Betting on their hospitality, they decided to present Italian country life to their guests.

As you pass the green-coloured iron bridge and cross the high metal gates, the canine residents of the farm - Goofy, Chloe, Tessa and Nozumi - saunter over and greet guests and visitors with their barks. The resident animals on the farm, which include cows, horses, sheep, hens, turkeys, ducks, geese, rabbits, are part of the extended family that is formed here; you will sense this immediately as you wander around.

The stone structure that welcomes you beyond the majestic cypresses houses the reception and restaurant, and the beauty of the surrounding mountainside lies in the background. The Brembana valley, in close proximity, is replete with elm, sycamore, olive trees, magnolias, azaleas and acacias. 
The lodgings have a simple stone exterior but inside, wood is the key element. Decorated with sturdy traditional wooden furniture, made locally, the rooms are spacious, neat and spotlessly clean. The comfortable beds are adorned with country-style bedcovers, adding to the ambience of the overall space. Each room has a small outdoor seating area for when the seasons allow it.

During the day, whether you choose to stay on the farm or explore the valley, it is very unlikely you will be distracted by any signs of urbanisation; there is just the flow of the river and the sounds of the farm. This is the place to enjoy life at a slower pace.

The stables are located just beyond the guesthouse but riding lessons take place in an open space just below, all year round. Everyone, even small children, can brush, saddle and get close to the majestic horses; the little ones also have the option of donkey and pony rides. There's nothing sweeter than seeing kids riding ponies or shyly trying to approach them, sometimes with freshly picked apples, when they are grazing on the grass.

Children run about freely, and play football or hide-and-seek behind the trees, if they are not occupied with the animals. In fact, during our time at the farm, there wasn't a single child glued to the screen of a phone or tablet.

All visitors have the opportunity to be a farmer for a day and try their hand at the farm. Even though my ancestors were farmers too, this was my first exposure to farming. It was fun to watch the metal container filling up with raw milk; for those of us used to picking up a pint of milk at the supermarket, there's something gratifying about seeing where it comes from.

More adventurous visitors can take the pedestrian and cycling route, part of which was an old railway track. Through the path, you can reach the towns of Oneta or Cornello dei Tasso, both an excellent example of the cultural heritage of the Brembana Valley. For a more demanding route, follow the track that passes through the towns of Valtorta, Ornica and Cusio. There is also canoeing in the Brembo river, archery in the woods as well as winter sports like sleigh rides, snowboarding and skiing not too far from the farm. In winter, a school, 20 minutes from Ferdy, offers ski lessons and visitors can take advantage of the Piani di Bobbio, Valtorta and Brembo ski slopes.

If the outdoors have left you wanting some pampering, the farm has its own wellness spa, using essential oils produced locally, and the cosmetics are made with only natural ingredients. A 'wool room' is also available where you can enjoy the balancing power of the soft mantle of the sheep from Bergamo.

Ferdy has a second farm, located at a higher altitude in the Alps, in Ornica, where cheese-making takes place. Local herbs, that are hand-picked, are often used for some of the cheeses.

All the produce eventually makes its way to the farm's restaurant, which is a destination by itself. The centrepiece of the stone-walled dining area is the fireplace which, during winter, exudes the warmth that ties the room together. Every day, homemade breads, pastries, cakes are offered at breakfast along with fruits, a selection of their delicious jams, and, of course, cheese.

Every meal served features produce - organic, natural and hormone free - either from the farm or the surrounding area, and the guests can choose from a quotidian menu of local specialties, such as handcrafted pasta with rich sauces, gnocchi, and steaks. Polenta is a staple of this region, and different versions are served as accompaniments to the main meals. Antipasti, including their own cheeses and cold cuts, are part of the lunch and dinner menus. Vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options are available upon request. They also breed trout for their delightful fish soup. 
Be warned, however, that lunches and dinners are served in four courses and are the antithesis of fast food. Don't be worried about working up an appetite: the mountain air makes you hungry.

When it was time to leave, we were genuinely torn. Time spent at this farm is an antidote to the speed, stress and complexities of city life. At Ferdy, you can experience a sustainable way of life, and a return to nature at a pace that is slow enough to help you absorb and appreciate your surroundings