Into the plains at Kruger National Park

Spend time in this 20,000 square kilometre conservation park (and there\'s no better time than now, which is the mild South African winter) and you\'ll feel completely enveloped in the natural world. A complete assault on the senses - sitting mere metres from a roaring lion is pretty terrifying - mankind\'s earliest ancestors lived here, and you\'ll certainly return home with a fantastic anecdote or two involving the wildlife. Because of this magic, more than 900,000 people visit the park every year - but thanks to its vastness, you can drive through its surprisingly well-developed roads without spotting another tourist - you are likely, however, to be sharing the trail with a lone bull elephant or an inquisitive black rhino. The big five and beyond The area is so rich in wildlife that before the park was established, it was the number one spot for unregulated hunting. Because of this, conservationists and politicians fought from 1898-1927 to create a protected area, where animals can live and breed in peace - with only their natural predators in the food chain to keep an eye out for. While everyone will have their own list of ‘must-see\' animals - most are keen to see the ‘big five\' in their natural habitat. The now tourist-focused phrase was actually coined by hardy hunters decades ago, as the five - lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and cape buffalo - were considered the most dangerous and difficult to hunt. And any camp you stay in within the park will be overseen by qualified and chatty safari guides, who will help you find your must-sees. Winter - from now until about September - is the best time to see the animals, and generally the south of the park boasts more four-legged inhabitants than the north (although this part, which is on the Mozambique and Zimbabwe border has a peace and tranquillity that makes it worth visiting). You\'re very likely to see herds of elephant, buffalo and rhino on your visit, and most visitors manage to see lions; it\'s the tree-loving, night-stalking leopards that are slightly more elusive. But to maximise your stay, think beyond the Big five, and keep your eyes peeled for an owl flying home at dusk, so-ugly-they\'re-cute warthogs at the edge of the watering hole or vultures living up to their names and moving in for their meal post-kill. Nature isn\'t predictable, and neither is Kruger National Park. Glamping galore While many think of safari holidays as an incredibly pricey exercise, Kruger offers accommodations to suit all pockets. There are self-catering rest camps for the hardy traveller who wants to self-drive through Kruger, which have communal kitchens, barbecues and basic bedding (visit www.krugerpark.co.za for more information on the dozen rest camps and tips on self-drive safaris). But a stay in a private game lodge - which usually charges flat rate fees that include all game drives, walks, meals and drink - can also work out to be surprisingly affordable. We suggest booking into modern and sleek spot, The Outpost. Situated in the very north of the park (fewer animal-spotting opportunities make for a more tourist-lite vacation) it is run in partnership with the Makuleke community, the people who lived in the area for hundreds of years before they were forced off their land in 1969. They\'ve since reclaimed the area and now help to run the lodge, which is most notable for the fact that the 12 stand-alone living spaces only have one wall - the open rooms are elevated above the valley, and because the lodge owners have been extremely careful about not leaving food out in the open, you can sleep out in the open air under the stars, with the only possible interruptions to your night\'s sleep coming from the odd trumpeting elephant. Pay around Dh2,200-per-night per person and you\'ll enjoy contemporary accommodation with fantastic views across the savannah and also breakfast, lunch and dinner, unlimited tea and coffee and twice-daily game drives with snacks and sundowners (theoutpost.co.za). But where ever you stay, make sure to take the time to sit outside and watch a famous Kruger National Park sunset - the African sky really is as magnificent as all the songs and poetry say. Trip notes God\'s Window, Mpumalanga Look out over 900 metres of lush indigenous forest at this breathtaking scenic spot, which is made up of 250km of sheer cliffs. There are also numerous walks, horse and mountain biking trails, and it\'s about a two-hour drive from the Kruger Gate. Helicopter Tours For the best views of the multifarious landscape book a chopper trip across the park. The Cascades tour flies over a 30-metre-high freestanding piece of sandstone, 64-metre high waterfall and the game-heavy Sabi River. The 45-minute trip costs from Dh3,500 for two people (extra passengers cost Dh475 each). beachandbush.co.za The Elephant Sanctuary, Hazyview Meeting the rescued elephants at this sanctuary just outside of the park is an enlightening experience. The animals are some of the most intelligent in the kingdom, and walking hand-in-trunk with one is likely to be one of the best things you ever do. elephantsanctuary.co.za Stay here Budget: Naledi Bushcamp This affordable slice of luxury in the Balule region of the park (they offer a shuttle service from Johannesburg) features comfortable accommodation, a pool and private safaris. It costs just Dh800-a-night per person including three meals a day, twice-daily game drives and a daily walk with a tracker. naledi.biz Mid range: Kapama Karula The Kapama Private Game Reserve lies between the Drakensberg Mountains and the Greater Kruger Park, and this camp made up of tents and suites is one of the most beautiful in the region, thanks to its position right on the river. Pay around Dh1,400-per-night per person, which includes three meals a day - one of which is a boma dinner - and game drives. kapama.co.za Luxury: Bush Lodge, Sabi Sabi Situated in the private reserve of Sabi Sabi just outside of Kruger Park, this 25-suite luxury reserve is as good as it gets. The game-spotting isn\'t limited to the drives, as every suite has showers with views out to the bushveld and huge viewing decks. Rates from Dh2,494 per person per night from now until July 31, which includes game drives, walks, breakfast, lunch and boma dinner, taxes and selected drinks. sabisabi.com Filmed there While no feature films have been shot in the park, countless wildlife documentaries have - plus there\'s the YouTube sensation Battle At Kruger. Fly there Fly from Dubai to Johannesburg with South African Airways from Dh4,000 return, flysaa.com. You can then drive (the roads are very good) from Joburg to the park in about four or five hours, or fly from Johannesburg to Nelspruit from Dh950 with SA Express, www.flyexpress.aero.